I don’t just read books. I devour them. One of my favorite things to do even while I’m travelling is to spend hours on end in book stores. And yet, till only recently I had never visited the annual Karachi International Book Fair.

It’s an event that has been taking place for the past eight years and has grown in size and scope with each passing year. All leading publishing houses in the country along with those from India, Turkey, Iran and Bangladesh have continued to participate in the event.

But why did I continue to ignore it? I thought about this a lot and the only convincing answer I kept coming up with, was that instinctively I knew there was nothing special about the fair and that I would be disappointed.

Now that’s a major concern for a person like me. I actually get depressed at book stores where inspite of spending hours browsing across section after section of books, I come out empty handed.

Well, despite my instinctive misgivings about an event that I had never been to, I decided to finally go. And, boy was I stunned! No, I wasn’t gleefully and euphorically swept away by a tidal wave of books of all shapes and sizes.

Instead, my senses were bombarded by the kind of loud religiosity I had last encountered while doing a newspaper feature on the Tableeghi Jamaat in Raiwind back in the early 1990s.

As I entered one (of the three) main halls where the fair was being held, I was instantly swept in by a sea of (urban middle-class) humanity, largely made up of women in jet black abayas, men with long, curly beards, and kids. Very noisy kids.

Sure, nothing wrong with that (as such). But as I tried to make my way through this very pious looking crowd, the deafening PA system suddenly came alive with some guy shouting about how Pakistan was created in the name of Islam and then went on to literally scream: ‘Pakistan ka matlab kya… ? (What is the meaning of Pakistan?).

His rhetorical (and very loudly put) question was answered by what sounded like a bunch of kids about to storm an infidel’s castle: ‘Lailahaillalah!’ Answered the kids.

This went on and on and on, until I decided to check out where the chanting was coming from.

It was emerging (like a hurricane of disembodied voices) from huge amplifiers set-up at a big ‘book stall’ run by a religious publishing house.

There was this huge bearded man with a microphone addressing a group of cute little kids (with their abaya-clad moms).

He wasn’t just selling them books. He was selling them an ideology.

‘Pakistan ka matlab kya …?’ He bellowed. ‘Laillahaillalah!’ Answered the kids in unison, but without ever letting go of their lollipops, popcorn and packs of fruit juice.

I looked around to see if anyone else was as flabbergasted by this as I was. I found none.

And how could I? I finally realised that more than 70 per cent of the book stalls in this large hall were owned and run by publishers that only offered religious literature.

But wait a minute. It wasn’t as simple as that.

As I turned away shocked by looking at more than a dozen young kids mindlessly mouthing what some seriously warped elders of theirs had told them to, I came face-to-face with yet another bearded fellow who shoved two A-4 size glossy pamphlets in my face.

‘Take!’ He said. So I took. A casual, confused glance at the glossies told me they belonged to yet another religious publishing house. But that’s all I could understand because most of the pamphlets were in Arabic!

So, without taking names here, I must tell that the guy shouting in the microphone was representing a ‘publishing house’ associated with outfits advocating one particular sunni Muslim school of thought while the one who had handed me the pamphlets was representing another sunni sub-sect.

The Pandora’s box was now wide open. Stall upon stall that I passed had mountains of books, all on Islam, or rather, the Islam according to the stalls’ particular sub-sect and denomination.

A friend cynically said about the event, “There were 72 sects there, all trying to convert Pakistani Muslims to their particular strain of Islam.”

Baffled by what looked more like a recruiting ground for all kinds of Islamic evangelical outfits than a book fair, I frantically began to look for non-Pakistani stalls. And voila! I found one belonging to a Turkish publisher.

Ah, I thought. Good old secular Turkey. But, alas, it was Pakistan that the fair was being held in. But all that this particular stall carried was literature by Turkish Islamic author, Fetullah Gullen.

So amidst the loud chanting of aggressive sloganeering over the PA, abayas, beards and book after book after book claiming to contain the ‘true essence of Islam,’ (for mama, papa, Bablu and Baby), I loped out to check the other two halls.

Though things were a bit quieter here, but here too, the majority of the stalls were piled up with books, DVDs and CDs about Islam for men, women, boys, girls, kids, old people, bankers, economists, wives, husbands and more wives…


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Comments (78)

Cynical
December 17, 2012 5:56 pm
I agree with your opinion on Ayan Hirsi Ali.
Cynical
December 17, 2012 5:53 pm
@Deb 'Why????' Why of what?
obaid qureshi, canada
December 17, 2012 4:05 pm
Indians should be thanksful to Jinnah. He took out the rotten apples from glorious India and put them in a jungle call Pakistan. Life in India has been so peaceful ever since!
Ali S
December 17, 2012 3:56 pm
Your beloved PPP is looting 'your' Sindh under your noses while you bow down to them
Ali S
December 17, 2012 3:34 pm
because nothing says secular and liberal like kicking out people who don't want to dress the way you do, right?
ghaleezguftar
December 17, 2012 12:45 pm
very accommodating of your secular sense!
Condemned
December 17, 2012 12:11 pm
Why you have words in Arabic for Pakistan? :-) And mind you, what you wrote are six words, not one! I'm a Pakistani and I learnt Arabic for general knowledge, not as an obligation :-)
dr khan
December 17, 2012 11:43 am
kick these Molvis out or they should kick us out but i worry no one wil take us , because these snakes can hide among us and destroy them as wel .
dr khan
December 17, 2012 11:42 am
very very true
ak
December 17, 2012 5:57 am
this is a complaint i have had for a long time. one cannot find books worth reading in Pakistan. Amazon Zindabad
Joe
December 17, 2012 5:03 am
So true. And the fish keep trying to eat each other.
G.A.
December 17, 2012 4:55 am
If they legalize alcohol then people won't need to get high on religion to escape the daily grind. Unfortunately, thats what religion has become for people - escapism - instead of a guiding light.
gary
December 17, 2012 3:10 am
If it is indeed between me and my maker, why are these 72 groups trying to convert me in 72 ways? Can't they leave it to err.. me and my maker?
Joe
December 17, 2012 3:01 am
'Divided' is not the whole story. There's more to it in NFP's article. Intolerance is imprinted early into children's minds to become divided from others, uncaring even to allow other voices to be heard. They learn from example: never mind the idea of attracting people by the content and human value of a message -- just turn up one's own loudspeaker volume to its maximum, so they can hear none else. .
F Hyat
December 17, 2012 1:19 am
The pakistani people stopped reading a long time ago. Book stores like The London Book Company, in Pindi, where my parents would take us every weekend and where we spent hours browsing, instilled a love of reading. Yes, I also read books on islam as well. But more on the historical aspect of Islam and how people through the ages have railroaded the truth. Anyway it is the way it is. But what's with the nuns in black abaya's? Why are these people taking on the culture of a different country, maybe they should go and live in that country with their bearded husbands and leave us alone in pakistan.
Syed
December 17, 2012 1:06 am
NFP, unlike you, I have gone to each and every Karachi book fair since it started and I can tell you that the descent into religious fanaticism is steep during the past 2-3 years. I used to buy books worth thousands of rupees all on different subjects. However, this year I bought none. In 2009, while visiting the stalls, I predicted to a friend that almost 90% books published in Pakistan are religious in nature.
Adnan
December 17, 2012 12:43 am
NFP, You are smart enough to know what this book fair would look like. It is being organized for the last eight years in Karachi. You wanted to write a piece on how the society's "true values" are being taken over by the "Islamic extremists" and you decided to go to the book fair to have good fun and then share it with your good readers. Now, everyone is wondering that what has gone wrong with our society? what is going on? and people have more reason to curse Ziaul Haq who died a quarter of century ago after changing our "true values" and usurping our "freedom" all alone! I have a sincere advice for you. If you want a book fair of your taste, then get it organized for yourself and the enlightened ones in Karachi. You must have the clout to do so. Also, given that you have a halo of a cultural critic, do something for the culture that you want to promote for yourself and your desperate followers in Pakistan. You will not be disappointed. Then, people will have fun reading Ansar Abbasi's article on how the society is being westernized, and its "true values" being razed by the book fair of yours. Good luck!
Pradip
December 17, 2012 12:39 am
Sorry dumb question but it is not a rhetorical one...are there people in Pakistan who even know the name of Chris Hitchens (what a loss with him gone) or the commentators here are Muslims but living abroad? I also agree that Ayan Hirsi Ali, though a brave woman and I enjoyed her book much, is not in the league of Hitchens or Dawkins.
Saeed
December 16, 2012 11:37 pm
Can anyone guess how many libraries and bookstores are in Karachi of 18 million+?
Cyrus Howell
December 16, 2012 11:14 pm
"Anything that might make the religious people engage in rational thinking is viewed as a threat." Yes, because Islam is closer to Totalitarianism than it can be Democracy. As pointed out at DAWN more Iranians are seeking asylum abroad than ever before. Asylum is the idea that your own government is cracking down on You. "Any thinking outside Mass Think will not be tolerated. SADDAM
Deb
December 16, 2012 9:36 pm
Why????
Maharaj K Razdan,MD.
December 16, 2012 9:12 pm
TRY AMAZON.COM YOU WILL GET WHAT YOU ARE LOOKING FOR!
Cyrus Howell
December 16, 2012 9:07 pm
"Should we emulate these foolish and fanatical people?" You will join them in war, or fight them in war. The fence you sit on is shaking. Airline tickets out of the country are still available for families.
shehzad
December 16, 2012 9:03 pm
Whats the difference ..... i think you and those at the stalls are same in one way.... Both trying to spread their ideology using one Media or other..... Keep It up!!!!!
Cyrus Howell
December 16, 2012 9:03 pm
Every small religious sect is like a tropical fish in a big aquarium. "Look at me. I'm unique. I'm special. Watch me swim. I am the prettiest. I am the smartest."
Cyrus Howell
December 16, 2012 8:58 pm
These sects exist because everyone wants to prove everyone else is wrong. Shia and Sunni will never coexist. Tolerance must be jammed down their throats.
Cyrus Howell
December 16, 2012 8:50 pm
"Knowledge, not old age brings Wisdom."
Cyrus Howell
December 16, 2012 8:48 pm
The sky is falling. Attack India. Attack Bollywood. Attack Cinemas. Attack Joy. Destroy Fun. That will please God.
does not matter
December 16, 2012 8:11 pm
Even an uneducated business man need those educated people to run his business until of course its a business man with a small stall on the road.
ashjbw
December 16, 2012 6:49 pm
Hi asif fantastic set of atheists who i admire too.Their reasonings are full of logic and common sense.Add to them the brilliant historian Nial fergusson and his lecture on the 6 apps for countrys to thrive ,prosper in the modern world.He set out these factors as to why the west was ahead of the rest for the last 400 years.Now the BRIC countrys are following this path with China way out ahead and forcast to surpass USA within next 30/40 years .Will Pakistan ever join them....not while religion is so pervasive and deeply entrenched in society.
faraz
December 16, 2012 6:42 pm
well NFP, i managed to find The God Delusion in the midst of all that tableeg
observer
December 16, 2012 6:38 pm
No single person or party will solve complex national problems of a big country. Please stop giving a false hope in the name of no Zaradri or no Nawaz Sharif. The reason our nation has issues is not corruption of politicians. Corruption is a problem indeed. But our society is conducive for crime as there is no consensus on basic things as Constitution and provincial autonomy.
Karachi Wala
December 16, 2012 6:36 pm
I hope you are right, but it seems more like vote PT and PREY.
Cynical
December 16, 2012 5:49 pm
Why not? One should read as much one can. Though my preference will alwaus be Hithins, Dawkins, Sam Harris and the like, I won't advise others not to read something I don't agree with.
Vishnu Dutta
December 16, 2012 4:09 pm
Please be a guest at Jaiput Lit Festival in january. I cant wait to talk to you or attend your sessions
Shayo
December 16, 2012 4:01 pm
Would they not be afraid to sell Hitchens or Dawkins? That seems to be open invitation to bombing or shooting.
G.A.
December 16, 2012 4:00 pm
With book fairs like these, thank God for the high illiteracy rate in Pakistan. We are saved!
reality not selected truth
December 16, 2012 3:39 pm
Cant understand how one can have this observation. I have had a complete opposite observation. Nomatter where i went nowhere did i find anyone willing to talk about religion and most of the people mock if they find one to be religious. It was easier to find such people when one was young around in ones environments as every woman tried to teach you something nice. Now its sickening to see well grown women trying only to tell you how well informed they are about trends. It seems people dont grow mentally anymore. People in their mid thirties act as teenagers.
obaid qureshi, canada
December 16, 2012 3:11 pm
Nadeem, I thank you. As usual a very good article. Makes you think. For Pakistan I have one word: INNALILLAHWAINNAALAIHERAJIOON!
TKhan
December 16, 2012 2:49 pm
@Karachiwalla; This song was written for you - read it as gender neutral. Kyun paisa paisa karti hain Kyon paise pe tu marti hain Karachiwalla to dukandar: Yaar zara toothbrush dena mere brush ka 1 baal toot gaya hai Dukandar: 1 baal toota hai to naya kyun le rahe ho? Karachiwalla: jo toota hai woh akhri tha.
Zeeshan Qazi
December 16, 2012 2:26 pm
I would say Amen to that. Long live NFP.
Zeeshan Qazi
December 16, 2012 2:24 pm
If anyone tries to sell books by Dawkins, Ayan Hirsi Ali or Sam Haris in Pakistan, I fear that the Pakistanis will probably end up killing such a person. Pakistanis I find are very narrow-minded.
Zeeshan Qazi
December 16, 2012 2:22 pm
I do not think religion should be needed for anything except one's personal life to provide assurances to the person who needs it. The rest of us and the society as a whole is much better off without religion.
Mustafa Kamal
December 16, 2012 2:18 pm
Its because the books written by Muslim intellectuals were stolen by Jews and Europeans according to Dr. Iqbal - The Eastern Poet!! Oolala!!!
abbastoronto
December 16, 2012 2:07 pm
“The 21st century will be religious one, or it shall not be”: prophesied Andre Malraux (d 1975) a Minister in de Gaulle’s Cabinet and the darling of the godless Left. There will be no 21st century unless it is a religious one. Indeed. The world has becoming increasing “religious” since Malraux departed. Even the US Democrats in and Canadian Liberals have started talking about god. Religion has always been more than salvation - political, about money and power. A religion is nothing more than a socio-economic system where rituals allow people with similar economic outlook bond together. Socialism, Marxism, Capitalism are religions, so is Secularism. Even Atheism is a religion, albeit a godless one. Every religion has the following traits. 1. A natural economic environment 2. An optimal building block 3. An central idea as the Axis 4. An investment source strategy 5. An output distribution formula Take for example the 3 Abrahamic religions of Moses, Jesus, and Mohammed (AS). The Economic environments are Pastoral, Agrarian, and Trading, respectively. The optimal building blocks are the Tribe, the Family, and the Individual. The central ideas are Equity (Insaf), Love, and Justice (Adl) around which the whole system revolves. The investment is through horded capital with a price, through land inheritance, and through savings with no price on capital. The output distribution is through the Central Idea - Equity, Love, and Justice (giving each his due). Get used to religion. What religion do you belong to?
abbastoronto
December 16, 2012 2:04 pm
R U Surprized?
Murthy
December 16, 2012 1:53 pm
All religions, I believe as an atheist, are establishments/industries exploited by businessmen, politicians and, of course, 'religious men'. This is happening more in Pakistan than elsewhere.in the world.
EkNazar
December 16, 2012 1:11 pm
Pakistan appears to be a very messed up society especially for a non-Muslim. Do I see anything changing soon? NO... I can trace all it's ills to the very idea of 'Two Nation Theory'.. Jinnah sold the idea of differentiation and now people are more interested in finding differences than similarities. Add Muslim Superiority Complex to the equation and you have what you see in Pakistan....
Karachi Wala
December 16, 2012 12:01 pm
"Despite my instinctive misgivings about an event that I had never been to, I decided to finally go. And, boy was I stunned!" You should not have been stunned as, your instincts had warned you in advance and very rightly so!
Karachi Wala
December 16, 2012 11:51 am
"Karachiwalla" Not sure what you are getting at, but, kindly leave my name alone. Thank you